What I Actually Use On My Skin: No Sponsorships/No Links
March 27, 2025
Part 1 of a 2 part series.....
Oh hi everybody!
For some bizarre reason, I’ve had this particular skincare note on loop in my head for over a year now. But I kept stalling on writing it because:
— I’m not a dermatologist
— I’m not an esthetician
— and I’m not a skinfluencer with a fridge full of serums and a desire to try the latest products. I just want what works so I can live my life.
While I am none of those things listed, I can go down a research rabbit hole like no one else, and the truth is, when I give this routine to my friends, it changes lives. So here we go:
This is primarily aimed at my fellow dry/sensitive skin folks, and especially those of us who are acne-prone caused by sensitized or dehydrated/ extremely dry skin. (The kind where your barrier is shot which makes everything worse). Oh and this works well if you’re redness prone, too, which I used to be!
Here’s the deal:
When your skin is overly dry or dehydrated, tiny fissures form in the barrier. That leaves openings for bacteria to get in and cause breakouts. Also barrier dysfunction is a form of inflammation, and our general goal is to decrease inflammation and promote healthy, functioning bodies (skin included). My goal with this routine is to nurture my barrier, support my current skin elasticity so my face doesn’t sag like Winston Churchill, and prevent/treat discoloration. That’s the dream trifecta in my book.
If you're in your late 30s/40s, this is for you....
The Basics (What Women Actually Need)
Full disclosure: I am not a product minimalist. But I’m not a serial product try-er either. I find what works and STICK TO IT. If you want a routine that works, keeps your skin clear while protecting your barrier, and treats discoloration + wrinkles, here’s an ultimate skincare regimen:
A gentle cleanser
A retinoid
A growth factor (ok this is a bonus)
A gentle acid for chemical exfolation
A peptide
A treatment serum (Vitamin C)
Niacinamide (aka B3, for skin clarity and fading discoloration)
A moisturizer with glycerin + ceramides
A sunscreen you actually wear
Bonus: A skin oil to seal in moisture.
Want to strip it down? Here's a basic/effective power set:
Cleanser, Vitamin C (in the day), Retinoid (at night), Moisturizer, Sunscreen. Done.
My Actual Routine
Morning:
Rinse with water
A skin essence (I love Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence — feels like watering your skin with humectants)… like a toner you apply with your fingers. Extremely moisturizing.
2 tiny drops of Calecim Professional Serum mixed with my Vitamin C (this is a growth factor and it’s expensive as hell). For Vitamin C, I rotate affordable options… I haven’t found a true stand out yet.)
Prequel Multi-Quench Hydrating Serum (hyaluronic acid–free and incredible—ride or die product. I’m on my 3rd bottle. It’s CHEAP and it freakin works. Best barrier support ever.)
A couple of drops of oil (currently using Jeffrey James The Glow, but I’m also a huge fan of Le Prunier) while I do Gua Sha in the morning. I do it while I wait for my coffee to brew and throw in some squats, lateral lunges, and step-back lunges, while I wait.
An eye cream… I’m not picky about this. I like peptides so I use one by Allies of Skin, but I also like Korean skin care so I’ll probably find one in that direction next.
Moisturizer (anything with glycerin and Ceramides)… right now I’m using Jordan Samuel Moisture Recovery because it’s rich, hydrating, and Hyaluronic acid-free. (more on why that is in Part 2 of this series).
Sunscreen from Prequel (mineral-based!)
Evening:
Double cleanse (yes, it matters) w/ Gleanser from Prequel — the GOAT cleanser
Peptides (I use Allies of Skin, but lots of great ones out there that are way less expensive)
2 drops of Calecim again mixed with peptides (tiny drops!). A lot of people love the SkinMedica TNS Serum—I’ve done research on both.
Retinoid from Agency or Cureology (these are the same company… they do prescription tretinoin cocktailed with other skincare gems like niacinamide (4%), and other/brightening & calming ingredients. Affordable and a little goes a long way! This is the backbone of this entire routine, but I also LOVE Avene Retrinal .1% or .05% if you’re super sensitive. If you already have a tretinoin prescription, you don’t need this.
Prequel Multi-Quench Plumping Hydrating Serum
Eye cream
Skin oil (p.s. don’t put coconut oil on acne prone skin). I don’t use a moisturizer beyond his at night cause I’m totally hydrated with that whole mix up above.
Sleep makes all the difference!
This routine keeps my skin clear, hydrated, and glowy without irritation. It’s barrier-first skincare, and it works. My skin is never dry anymore. And it was dry AF for over ten years.
Want to see some photos? Here we go. On the left is my worst day, after my esthetician told me I was a problem child, which I was! But... she was sort of causing the problem by recommending acids twice a day, an acid-based cleanser, and a bunch of expensive crap I didn't need. On the right is recently in full sunlight, with dried lipstick, but you get the point.
Then
This was after I had my last appointment with a really well-loved esthetician in Portland (who I also love as a person!), but her program just made things worse. My barrier was sooo destroyed.And it took me several years from then to now to really get a full understanding of how to treat my skin by restoring my barrier.
Now
So I’m older now and have other things to deal with (like forehead wrinkles), but my skin is predictable now. Like clockwork. It behaves because it’s not inflamed.